Wednesday, May 06, 2009
Hold On - AsDSSka
YouTube via msmoselle
"Music Video for first single by AsDSSka
Directed and Filmed by Crystal Moselle and Spike Jonze
Edited by Aki Mizutani at Cutters
www.familylosangeles.com/"
via sir_dss on the forum:
"Hi, I just wanted to post a new video one of my bands that we did. It was directed
by Spike Jonze(Being John Malkovich, Adaptation and lots of music videos too)
and Crystal Moselle.
Tons of my MOTM shots in the video.
Be friends with us...
www.myspace.com/asdsska
All the best!
David Scott Stone"
Jen SX-1000 Analogue Mono Synthesizer
via this auction"An excellent example of the classic Italian synth from 1978. Simple and not-so-underrated nowadays, with a single oscillator (VCO or DCO? see below), 12dB/octave self-oscillating filter, three waveforms (sawtooth, square and pulse-width variable square), two types of noise in addition to the waveform, separate envelopes for the filter and amplitude, LFO modulation of filter cutoff, pitch and PWM (all at the same time if you want), PWM control, variable glide, master tune and octave.
Possibly the best and most intuitive use of a mere 24 easy to use knobs on the front panel.Some decent links here, which should go some way towards solving the DCO/VCO debate. As far as I can tell, it's somewhere inbetween, a digitally 'divided' analogue oscillator, so it certainly sounds analogue but actually stays in tune.
Gordon Reid's Vintage Synths Jen article
Sound on Sound article (Very good)
Vintagesynth.org page"
More Info on the Beilfuss Step Synthesizer
See the update after the images in this post. Comments disabled here to keep them there.
The Singing Minimoog And The Memory Man
YouTube via retrosound72
"intage synth demo by RetroSound
'The Singing Minimoog'
Minimoog VCF-FM demo + EHX Memory Man Deluxe Analog Delay
drums: Roland TR-808"
aftertouch repair
The topic of aftertouch repair came up on the Analog Heaven email list. The following are a few links that came in. If you know of more feel free to comment or send me email directly.
Roland JX-8P / Juno-2 aftertouch repair
Roland JX-8P aftertouch repair
AKAI MX100 aftertouch repair
These came from Robert on the list with the following:
"What's the keyboard pressure circuit like?
On my JX-8P, I think it has a resistive pressure sensor, an op amp, and a few resistors to set the gain.
What's the most likely thing to fail?
I'd say the pressure sensor itself. On the JX-8P, you change out one resistor, to give the op amp circuit more gain. That's all you had to do to make the aftertouch usable again.
What if you don't have schematics?
Open the synth up, unscrew the keyboard bed. Take it apart enough to find the pressure sensor. It's most likely a long tape like thing going the length of the key bed. Each key will have a part that extends down to press on the pressure sensor. I can't remember if the JX sensor has two wires or three coming off of it. I think it's two. It was separate from the key switch wiring, different connector.
Use a volt/ohm meter to trace where those wires go. Most likely, they will lead you to some resistors and an op amp. Look at some op amp circuits, inverting and non-inverting. It's most likely an inverting op amp circuit. The two resistors set the gain. You need more gain. Once I found the right op amp, I experimented with the resistors. Seems like I cut one end of the resistor and soldered in a second one in series with it.
I have the schematics somewhere. I used to be a Roland warranty service tech (cough, cough, 25 years ago).
Wierd, new stuff on the net, a new way to fix it. It is the pressure sensor.
Here's another take on the pressure problem: the brass strip in the sensor has tarnished. http://analog.no/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=54
Your DSS-1 sensor may be like the Roland sensor.
Maybe I'm lazy. I just tweaked the resistor and it worked on stage for the next 10 years. I haven't played it for a while. I should. I also have a MKS-70. The JX-8P seems to have more punch, but the key contacts are flakey.
Here's another fix site: http://emptyworldart.com/pg800/aftertouch.html
Cool, here's an Akai one: http://www.lynxxx.nl/akaimx1000/
Here's a schematic for a Korg DW-8000. Might help... http://www.pallium.com/bryan/dw/DW-8000_Service_Manual.pdf
Anyway, looks like there is more than one way to fix the problem. Heh, learn new stuff everyday. :)"
Update:
via Dave on the AH list.
"Roland JX-8P / Juno-2 aftertouch repair
If you own an early Roland synth that has aftertouch you have probably experienced that the aftertouch function is not working as is should. You have to press very hard, and the response is not even over the whole keyboard length.
This is caused by oxidation of the aftertouch sensor. There were reports of this problem already when the JX-8P hit the streets so most probably the sensor was already oxidized at delivery...
However, by doing a fairly easy, but time consuming job, the aftertouch can be restored to better than new condition!
This diagram shows a cut through the sensor. When pressure is applied the two brass conductors will be electrically connected through the conductive rubber and the metal foil.
Problem is that the brass oxidize and the surface stops conducting. There is also a build-up of oxide on the conductive rubber strips.
PS: You might have heard that it is possible to get the aftertouch working by a modification to the sensor electronics. This only applies to the very first JX's and it is mostly unlikely that this is necessary on your instrument. Only way to get the aftertouch fully working is by following the procedure below.
How to repair:
* Remove keyboard assembly from synth. Placing them in correct order on the table makes assembly easier...
* Remove all key's: First remove the transparent plastic strip that that prevents the key's from being pulled towards the front. This strip is not needed. Then loosen all springs. The keys can then be removed by pulling towards the front and then lifted up.
* Carefully remove the upper rubber housing with felt-strip. (This is secured with glue at both ends.)
* Remove the metal foil and all bits of conductive rubber. Be very careful not to bend the foil.
* The two brass conductors surface must now be cleaned! Usually it's enough to clean it with q-tips wetted with metal polish. If severe oxidation has developed then use water-proof sanding paper and water to clean it. If you work carefully it's possible to re-use the double sided tape.
* Clean the brass-strips with q-tips wetted with acetone until no dis-coloration of the q-tips is visible.
* Clean both sides of the conductive rubber strips with q-tips wetted with alcohol until no dis-coloration of the q-tips is visible.
* Clean the metal foil with q-tips wetted with acetone until no dis-coloration of the q-tips is visible. (Careful not to bend it.)
* Then assemble in reverse order. Sometimes it is necessary to replace the double sided tapes. Also, secure the top housing with a very small amount of super glue at both ends.
After completing this procedure your JX-8P aftertouch should be working better than new!
Additionally, there are gain-setting resistors there, which can be changed to..." It cuts off at this point."
Roland JX-8P / Juno-2 aftertouch repair
Roland JX-8P aftertouch repair
AKAI MX100 aftertouch repair
These came from Robert on the list with the following:
"What's the keyboard pressure circuit like?
On my JX-8P, I think it has a resistive pressure sensor, an op amp, and a few resistors to set the gain.
What's the most likely thing to fail?
I'd say the pressure sensor itself. On the JX-8P, you change out one resistor, to give the op amp circuit more gain. That's all you had to do to make the aftertouch usable again.
What if you don't have schematics?
Open the synth up, unscrew the keyboard bed. Take it apart enough to find the pressure sensor. It's most likely a long tape like thing going the length of the key bed. Each key will have a part that extends down to press on the pressure sensor. I can't remember if the JX sensor has two wires or three coming off of it. I think it's two. It was separate from the key switch wiring, different connector.
Use a volt/ohm meter to trace where those wires go. Most likely, they will lead you to some resistors and an op amp. Look at some op amp circuits, inverting and non-inverting. It's most likely an inverting op amp circuit. The two resistors set the gain. You need more gain. Once I found the right op amp, I experimented with the resistors. Seems like I cut one end of the resistor and soldered in a second one in series with it.
I have the schematics somewhere. I used to be a Roland warranty service tech (cough, cough, 25 years ago).
Wierd, new stuff on the net, a new way to fix it. It is the pressure sensor.
Here's another take on the pressure problem: the brass strip in the sensor has tarnished. http://analog.no/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=54
Your DSS-1 sensor may be like the Roland sensor.
Maybe I'm lazy. I just tweaked the resistor and it worked on stage for the next 10 years. I haven't played it for a while. I should. I also have a MKS-70. The JX-8P seems to have more punch, but the key contacts are flakey.
Here's another fix site: http://emptyworldart.com/pg800/aftertouch.html
Cool, here's an Akai one: http://www.lynxxx.nl/akaimx1000/
Here's a schematic for a Korg DW-8000. Might help... http://www.pallium.com/bryan/dw/DW-8000_Service_Manual.pdf
Anyway, looks like there is more than one way to fix the problem. Heh, learn new stuff everyday. :)"
Update:
via Dave on the AH list.
"Roland JX-8P / Juno-2 aftertouch repair
If you own an early Roland synth that has aftertouch you have probably experienced that the aftertouch function is not working as is should. You have to press very hard, and the response is not even over the whole keyboard length.
This is caused by oxidation of the aftertouch sensor. There were reports of this problem already when the JX-8P hit the streets so most probably the sensor was already oxidized at delivery...
However, by doing a fairly easy, but time consuming job, the aftertouch can be restored to better than new condition!
This diagram shows a cut through the sensor. When pressure is applied the two brass conductors will be electrically connected through the conductive rubber and the metal foil.
Problem is that the brass oxidize and the surface stops conducting. There is also a build-up of oxide on the conductive rubber strips.
PS: You might have heard that it is possible to get the aftertouch working by a modification to the sensor electronics. This only applies to the very first JX's and it is mostly unlikely that this is necessary on your instrument. Only way to get the aftertouch fully working is by following the procedure below.
How to repair:
* Remove keyboard assembly from synth. Placing them in correct order on the table makes assembly easier...
* Remove all key's: First remove the transparent plastic strip that that prevents the key's from being pulled towards the front. This strip is not needed. Then loosen all springs. The keys can then be removed by pulling towards the front and then lifted up.
* Carefully remove the upper rubber housing with felt-strip. (This is secured with glue at both ends.)
* Remove the metal foil and all bits of conductive rubber. Be very careful not to bend the foil.
* The two brass conductors surface must now be cleaned! Usually it's enough to clean it with q-tips wetted with metal polish. If severe oxidation has developed then use water-proof sanding paper and water to clean it. If you work carefully it's possible to re-use the double sided tape.
* Clean the brass-strips with q-tips wetted with acetone until no dis-coloration of the q-tips is visible.
* Clean both sides of the conductive rubber strips with q-tips wetted with alcohol until no dis-coloration of the q-tips is visible.
* Clean the metal foil with q-tips wetted with acetone until no dis-coloration of the q-tips is visible. (Careful not to bend it.)
* Then assemble in reverse order. Sometimes it is necessary to replace the double sided tapes. Also, secure the top housing with a very small amount of super glue at both ends.
After completing this procedure your JX-8P aftertouch should be working better than new!
Additionally, there are gain-setting resistors there, which can be changed to..." It cuts off at this point."
Original Fairlight Brochure
via this auction via Loscha. If anyone knows when this was from please comment. Click on the image to read."4 panel front and back full color. I'm not an expert on Fairlight, but, I'm pretty sure it's from the first series: has 8" floppies and the 6809 CPU add on is listed as being available for it (so you can run a bit of COBOL or Pascal in your spare time). In excellent condition except for a tiny dog ear on front , as shown in scan.
As some book somewhere put it .... Trailblazing Megabuck Sampling! This brochure reflects that, quite well I feel. Has some info about the different "Pages", as well as the old schtick "you can sample Tim Shaw cutting through a cactus with a Demtel knife" or whatever example they using for sampling! 210 K or RAM is Standard in this reality. MIDI not even mentioned. Sounds can be "memorized" to disc. No sound degradation copying sounds! Inbuilt 20w amp for monitoring (gosh those boys and gals thought of everything!)"
via Loscha: "If anyone could let me know what series it is, I'd be thrilled. No date I can see on it anywhere."
Update: Note "It has the old Logo on it, which I think they changed when they went to IIx."
Moog Voyager Sequenced!
Moog Voyager Sequenced! from Calvin on Vimeo.
More info including samples with Numerology and the Vermona Performer at cl516.blogspot.com
MFOS Sound Lab ULTIMATE
New from Music From Outer Space* Three Musically Accurate VCOs (sawtooth and variable width rectangular wave forms, pulse width modulation, hard-sync, log and linear CV inputs)
* VCOs provide plenty of tracking range. Listen to the samples below.
* White Noise Generator
* Active Mixer (for VCOs, noise and external input)
* Voltage Controlled LP Filter (12db/Oct doubles as a sine wave oscillator)
* Voltage Controlled Amplifier (log response)
* Attack Release Envelope Generator
* Two Low Frequency Oscillators (square, ramp, tri and sawtooth waveforms)
* Repeat Gate Generator (doubles as another square wave LFO)
* Sample & Hold (with variable sample rate and glide)
* Attenuator Bank (for a infinite variety of modulation patches)
* Patch Panel Design (provides infinitely variable combinations of sounds)
* Professionally machined panels available from MFOS
You can find more info including samples at Music From Outer Space
Microtonal Guitar Synthesizer Solo
YouTube via MaxRidgway
"A microtonal guitar synthesizer solo, an improvisation over a recording of Tibetan singing bowls. Recorded April 16, 2009"
Guitar Synthesizer Solo #1
"An improvised guitar synthesizer solo. Recorded on May 1, 2009. For anyone interested, I used a Roland GR 700, a Digitech 8-second delay/sampler and a delay-line granulator."
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MATRIXSYNTH - EVERYTHING SYNTH
© Matrixsynth - All posts are presented here for informative, historical and educative purposes as applicable within fair use.
MATRIXSYNTH is supported by affiliate links that use cookies to track clickthroughs and sales. See the privacy policy for details.
MATRIXSYNTH - EVERYTHING SYNTH
